Walk 47 (HW 6) - 17.6 miles - Total 637.0 miles - To Go 363.0 miles

Sam's Walk

Carlisle, Sands, Carlisle Castle, Burgh Sands, Drumburgh, Glasson, Port Carlisle, Bowness on Solway.





Hi Sam. This is the last day of our walk and it was special. I am writing it sitting at the end of the walk listening to the curlews and overlooking the Solway. It has been a pleasure walking your walk. We have met some wonderful people who have kindly donated and wished us success with our campaign. We have also seen some amazing sights. And we did it. Over 90 miles in 6 days would have seemed amazing to us a year ago and the legs do ache but we did it. If I had a magic wand now we would close our eyes and make our wish for a treatment for MS. With the help and support we have seen and the efforts of people like Robin Franklin we are full of hope.

Today we started out from our B and B at the Courtfield Guest House, Carlisle. Run by Margie this is the most perfect place you will ever stay in. Everything immaculately clean and the interior design of every room turned out with flair and imagination. Lovely touches like scented candles to welcome you home after supper. Margie is the perfect host with a sense of humour that revives you after a long day walking.

We start out and early on Viv keeps assuring me we are not lost by the river Eden.

Our first stop is at the Sands Sports Centre to get our sixth stamp for our passport. We read the sunday papers, have a coffee and meet the lovely Maureen. Thank you for your generous donation Maureen which we know will make a difference.


We go to the Castle to meet up with the East Cumbria branch of the MS Society. What an amazing group of people. We are inspired by the work Sarah, Lucy, Nicola, Lee and the team have done to help people in the area who have MS. With 100 members they have set up monthly cafe meets where people make friends and talk about their lives and help each other through the struggle MS brings to them. 20-30 people come each month. They have set up a Parent/Child group and a young parents group and run fund raising events like fashion shows. They talk of the great work their local support officer Julie does. With MS continually disrupting their lives impacting mobility, stamina and the ability to do what they want to do we are amazed at what they are achieving. You guys are truly amazing and it was a real pleasure to meet you all. Keep going while the scientists work hard on finding a treatment.

We carry on along the Eden where we come across the Cleveland Under 8's preparing for a tournament. We discover that there are already players being tracked by the big football clubs. Three are being tracked by Blackburn Rovers and two by Liverpool.


We talk to a fisherman Mike Selby who has been by the river for four hours since 8.30 and caught nothing. He caught a 2lb salmon the night before which will be his meal today. Rob says he doesn't get it standing there for four hours and catching nothing. I remember whiling away hours with my dad by the Trent when young and enjoying even the sessions when we caught nothing.



We walk until we get to the Greyhound at Burgh by Sands where we stop for lunch. We bump in to Annelies again who joins up with us for the final stretch. Liam the barman comes over to learn about our campaign and also to show us a card trick. Well done Liam as this attracted further donations to the cause. Rob then impressed us all with his own card trick which he then left Liam to work out how he did it. Cruel!


We stop at another pub for Viv at the Highland Laddie Inn at Glasson. We are now on to our final stretch down to the Banks at Bowness and Solway and when the camera men have finally worked out the angles of the sun and where we were allowed to cheer we threw up our arms in celebration of the completion of Sam's walk and the end of Hadrian's wall. We get our final stamp at the King's Arms and receive our certificate of acheivement. We are also told we are booked in for supper at 8pm and had better be on time! We stayed at The Old Vicarage which was another great B and B with bags of character, comfort and welcoming hospitality.


Well done Rob and Viv and a big thanks to Viv for joining us on this leg of the walk. Viv taught us a lot about engaging people in what we are doing and was a real success at getting people interested. Aching limbs, already some wonderful memories settling down and more donations to what we really want which is a successful treatment for MS. The locals celebrate the end of our Hadrian experience with us and their impromptu folk band at the Kings Arms.

Walk 46 (HW 5) - 10.8 miles - Total 619.4 miles - To Go 380.6 miles

Sam's Walk

Walton, Newtown, Crosby on Eden, Rickerby and Carlisle






Hi Sam and we hope you are enjoying your holidays. We think about you as we start out today. Last night was quite an experience worth a mention. We stayed at the White Horse at Brampton and were alerted to things to come by Linda our taxi driver who said it can be a bit noisy on a Friday night! Viv and I had rooms at the front and I quickly closed my window as it was above where the smokers go for their smoke at the entrance to the bar. As the night wore on the shouting got louder and made less sense until it reached its crescendo around 1am. That was not the end of the show as a fight broke out in the car park in the early hours and a car was stolen. When we go down to breakfast the police are at work collecting their information. Poor Annelies from Nijmeger in Holland was walking Hadrian and had come here for some quiet as there is a big festival taking place in her town this week. She could not believe what she was hearing and seeing. We met Annelies at the hotel and she has a friend Ine Geboers who has MS. Rob only got three hours sleep and is desperate for some more.

We take breakfast in the hotel and talk with Sandra the temporary manager. She convinces us that running a pub is hard work but she is enjoying it. Rob puts on a show for us in the bar early on with a few beer mats he performs beer mat tossing. Apparently he was Brasenose beermat tossing champion at Oxford and claims something like over 40 beermats. Today he goes down memory lane and says he tossed 25 but looked like about 4 to me. Lynda our taxi driver meets us to take us back up to where we finished on the wall yesterday and Annelies comes along with us. Lynda is not surprised to hear our experience but cannot believe we have booked in again tonight to find out what happens next in all the arguments and punch ups taking place. Just kidding and no way are we going back there.


The walking is pleasant but much less dramatic than previous days. Impressive views of the Coast to Coast hills to come in September with Rob bravely waving his stick at them and saying 'huh...you call them hills?'.




We pass through Newtown where Rob engages Liverpool fans with Nathan, Aiden and Amberlooloo, their dad Jonathon and the dogs Coco Sophie and Honey. We lose Rob for a while as he talks Liverpool football and the prospects for the season.




Further along we catch a thief with his fingers in the honesty money box of The Stall on the Wall.

At the Stag's Head at Crosby on Eden we meet William and Else from Holland who we thank for your very generous contribution to our campaign. We really appreciate it and we know it will make a difference. We also see lines inside the pub on the wall about three feet off the ground showing where the floods rasied to in 2007. Scary thought.



At Rickerby we see a chain saw sculpture in a dead tree.

Finally in to Carlisle and it is a bit of a hit on the senses being back in a town after the freedom and stunning scenery of the Northumberland countryside around Hadrians Wall. Hopefully less excitement outside our bedroom windows tonight and a good nights sleep before our final day.

Walk 45 (HW 4) - 17.1 miles - Total 608.6 miles - To Go 391.4 miles

Sam's Walk
Steel Rigg, Gilsland, Birdoswald and Walton








Hi Sam. We are back at our rooms this evening and absolutely exhausted after a long walk in the sun. Today we passed through 600 miles of walking since Jan 4th and completed 64 miles in 4 days of Hadrian's Wall and your walk. I never thought I would say this but it was easier in the rain and cloud of yesterday than the walking we did today. But we thought of you as we started out and once again were treated to some wonderful scenery and history along the way.

After a great British breakfast at Val's place on Gibb's Farm where Val looked after us to perfection she then took us to our start point at Steel Rigg where we finished yesterday. We had met Nigel from Wiltshire over breakfast and he joined us to the start point. Nigel impressed Rob with his story of carrying two Peugot bicycles to the top of Kilimanjaro and taking a photograph at the top as an ad for Peugot. Impressive as Rob is going up at the end of the year without a bicycle and thinks that will be tough enough.

The scenery is stunning along the way and the walking is challenging with lots of ups and downs. Only a few hundred feet up and a few hundred feet down but when you do twenty of these you eventually notice tendons tightening and tiredness building. We spent today looking at wall, or lying on it, standing in turrets or walking along the vallum which is a trench to the south of the wall. We talked about Hadrian and the sort of emperor he was. Hadrian followed Trajan who had defeated the Dacians, was expansionist and aggressive in his attempts to extend east and had already built forts in the North of England. Hadrian was a peaceful emperor who was interested in everything Greek (he said everything worth writing had already been written in Greek), loved philosophy and had many attempts to establish the rights of men and women. He was the first emperor to legislate that women could not be forced in to marriage and could have a say in who they marry. He banished some of his executive who he thought were cruel to their slaves. There is a story that one person released from prison who had tried to kill him was pardoned and became one of Hadrians most loyal servants. Forward looking about land he proposed a rule that if land owned by someone were not developed for five years then whoever started to develop it would become the owner of the land. He wanted factions to work together through constructive dialogue and worked hard to protect the empire as it existed at the time. Hence the wall from Carlisle to Newcastle. It is amazing to think of the impact he had back in Rome across all the lands and to get legions of soldiers to carry massive rocks up great hills and craggs to build his wall.


We hit 600 miles at Samson Inn in Gilsland. This fits well with Rob's photographic record of the decline of the English pub. Us and four other customers and looking like a very difficult way to make a living it will probably not last many more years. We cheer this milestone and reflect on the many miles of interest, fun and real challenge we have already experienced. Only 400 more to go until we have walked 1000!

Rob and Viv have done well today and this was a tough days walking. At Walton opposite the Centurian Arms, a pub now no longer a pub, we meet Duvain and his nephew Lee from North Wales near Prestatyn. They walked 13 hours yesterday with tent and gear on back and will do the whole walk in one day less than us. Carrying your own home as you go this is really impressive. Well done guys.

Walk 44 (HW 3) - 15.7 miles - Total 591.5 miles - To Go 408.5 miles

Sam's Walk
Wall, Chollerford, Walwick, Vercovicium (Housesteads) and Steel Rig.







Hi Sam. This is such a great walk and we have really enjoyed today. We marvel at the resourcefulness of mankind through the ages and were amazed at what we saw people capable of two thousand years ago. We hope our scientists of today can come up with the secrets needed to solve MS and give you the life we want you to have. We think about you as we start again today.

We are ready to go after a big fry up. All my wet gear is packed in my back pack as I step outside and see it is raining that very fine rain. Not forecast but means a quick change of clothes. We are off and plan on doing around 16-18 miles today with some hills along the way. Early on we pass Brunton Turret and Viv and Rob want to go and see it because it is one of the best preserved. I say we can see it from the road lets get going as we got miles to do. They persuaded me and it was a good call. We started to cast ourselves back two thousand years ago and really got in to the grooves used to hold the vertical slabs in place at the entrance to the turret. Rob and I have no idea what we are talking about but look convincing to anyone looking on.

Round the corner to Chollerford where there is an old Roman Bridge. Then we find a little garage and I tell Rob we can find what he has been missing since the start of the walk. He says 'no way' and as we enter the shop he tells me to ask for him. Gemma greets us with a lovely welcoming smile and I ask very loudly 'do you sell Vasoline' to which Rob says 'its for our friend behind us!!!'. I tell Gemma it is for Rob and he is too shy to ask and she says 'oh how sweet'. Rob blushes. Anyway they do sell Vasoline and this distance from Newcastle it is a big seller for those who have come without.

We go in to Chesters Fort to get our next stamp. We meet Time Travellors Susie, Lilly, Anna and David who are doing their thing at Chesters Fort. They take 6-11 year olds back in time and carry out activities to take them in to that time. Sounds like a great idea and they look like a fun group to work with. Again Viv suggests we should go and see the fort and I am worrying about our miles and time to do it and once again I am convinced. Brilliant idea Viv and well done persuading us.
This place was amazing. The layout of barracks, officers quarters, main square and baths give you a real feel for what it must have been like. Functionally organised and geometric in its layout we were very impressed at what they did 2000 years ago. The baths have not really been improved in concept since then. They had hot and cold rooms, steam, plunge pools and sitting areas to change. Must have been amazing. Rob tries out the changing room and imagines himself moving on to the baths.

We now see turret after turret and they are all impressive affairs. Just beyond Black Cart Turret we stop at the 'very fresh coffee cart'. Run by Antonio (Ant) the Protector of Procolitia he has been there every day serving drinks for the last three years. He tells us only on one day has there been no walker to serve. Each year he serves between 8-10000 drinks in all weather and in the thick fine drizzle of this morning we really appreciate ours. Thanks for your generous donation Antonius we really appreciate it and it will make a difference. Procolitia was first garrisoned with a French legion and then later on a German legion. We reflect on soldiers coming from down south round the med and having to serve in the harsh conditions of Northumberland in times gone by.


A bit further along we meet Richard and Alan who look after the path all year round. They mow the paths, make repairs to the path and look after all the stiles. They do a fantastic job and seem really happy in their work. Thanks for your very generous donations Richard and Alan we really appreciate it.

We stop at Vercovicium (Housesteads) Fort which is yet another really impressive place. Lots of the same features of Chesters but here we notice the under floor heating for the commanding officer (warm air blasted under a raised floor) and the amazing lattrines.
We are once again struck by the sophistication of Hadrian's Romans back then. 800 troops in the barracks and it seems that most of them have in total the same amount of space as the commandors house. Things haven't changed.

As we leave we meet Liam Charlotte, Shaun, Sam, Kevin and Marie and Paul (Granddad) from Stevenage near where I live. They are sitting on the wall and enjoying a little stretch along this part.




We head off to Sycamore Pass and some scary ledges for me and eight vertically up and down 400 feet rises and falls. Fortunately I was ahead of Rob so that he couldn't point out the sheer drops around me and I used my yoga breathing to keep my mind on my feet alone. Then I learn that Viv and Rob took a detour to a road missing out the eight challenging climbs. After I have done them I get a call to tell me they have dropped down to the road.


We are picked up at Steel Rig by Val who takes us to her amazing farm. A most perfect spot and a wonderful finish to a most amazing and interesting day.

Walk 43 (HW 2) - 12.7 miles - Total 575.8 miles - To Go 424.2 miles

Sam's Walk
Iron Sign, Harrow Hill, Whitton Dene, Halton Shields, Port Gate, Planetrees and Wall










Hi Sam. We are starting out on your walk again today and thinking about you. We are wishing for success in Robin's work to find a breakthrough. Lots of people we meet are wanting success and are so generous with their contributions and wishes.
The highlight of my morning is talking to my goddess and the love of my life Karen. The sun is shining after heavy rain last night and every day gets better when I connect with her. I love you darling and really admire the bravery and courage you show each day fighting the challenges MS sends your way. Keep at it and we will do our walk and our work to raise hope for you and all others with this disease.

We start walking and most of today will spend either side of a B road which was Military Road. We see regular evidence of the Vallum (ditch) to the south of the road but it will be a while before we see the wall. Rob tells us he feels great this morning so I ask him to describe it some more. He feels at ease with the world, calm and notices it is warm around us. He excudes good vibes. Viv is itching to see some wall but will have to be patient.

A feature of today is me going at a brisk pace and Viv and Rob chatting at a leisurely pace up to 20 minutes behind me. I stop at Whittle Dean Reservoir and go in to the bird watching hide. A lovely spot where I am sure keen birdwatchers spend many happy hours. The book shows a wide variety of feathered visitors with over 6000 sightings of Golden Plover in 2007 and 1 American Wigeon in 2001 and a Temmints Stint in 1991. Rob and Viv turn up with Rob in avid conversation with one of his City Chairmen. Viv is intrigued how Rob and I remain connected to the world via our phones through the walks. Rob goes in to the hide for the first time in his life. I notice an entry from two days ago saying 'Rain won't stop, trying to warm up here, at least it is not winter!'. But today it is sunny and glorious.



We stop at the Robin Hood pub for tea or shandy as to taste. Being big kids at heart we may be in our mid fifties but like young boys we still get excited about getting stamps in our passport. This is the second of six to get along the way and if we get them all we get a certificate at the end. Exciting hey.


A little further along near Halton Shields I stop for a tea at the Ramblers Rest and wait for Rob and Viv. They do turn up about 20 minutes later and I am now learning this is a great way to get longer breaks and take in the scenery. Ramblers Rest is a great little place with its won guinea pigs in a run on the lay by lawn named josie and bebby. The guinea pigs are a gift from the grandkids joshua and bethany and are so called to have similar names. Makes you think about a spot like this where over 1 million people pass each year. If each person has on average a cup of tea and a chocolate bar then this spot has over £1 million per year.

Rob and Viv have been connecting and talking family. Viv actually engages with Rob in his little quizzes. Rob loves filling time with questions like 'which was the only football team not to lose in the world cup but went home early?' and 'how many times bigger than our sun is the newly discovered biggest star in the universe'. I get bored quickly and frustrated Rob has to tell me the answers but Viv is really interested so there is real excitement between them as they discuss sun and stars.

Finally towards the end of todays walk we come upon the Wall. Great excitement as we finally can touch it and think about this nearly 2000 year old piece of history. We are moved. Tomorrow we see more.





We met lots of lovely people today. In the Robin Hood pub Rob walked in with Randy Dicicco from Watsonville California, her duaghther Rhiannon from Santa Cruz California and Rebecca Hall also from California. They are doing the wall and already we have met twice today. Near the Errington Arms we meet Sue and Phil from Ottawa who are staying at the place we left this morning. Thank you for your very generous donation Sue and Phil we know it will help us with our cause. Their neice has just been diagnosed with MS at 31 years old and she has three children. They wish us success with our campaign. At the Errington Arms we meet Maria Sexton and her daughter Elin from Gothenburg. Maria is Swedish and Elin is British as born here and Mr Sexton being Scottish. Again we meet at our first sighting of the wall and they are staying at the same place as us tonight.

A short walk today but many lovely views and thoughts and feelings as the day unfolded. As we step through our thousand miles we are hoping Robin and his team are making small steps to a big breakthrough that will give hope to Sam and all others suffering from MS today.