Walk 13 - 10.5 miles - Total 184.6 miles - To Go 814.4 miles

Pathfinder Guide 54 Walk 27: Brocket Park, The River Lea and The Ayots




We can't believe it. We wake to a cold spring like day and the conditions are great for walking. We meet at Brocket Hall with its stunning views across the Broadwater and to Lord Brockets old home. These are the grounds of the famed buried Ferrari's that lead to Lord Brocket spending some time at Her Majesty's pleasure. Local folklore has it that a policeman walking through the grounds noticed a Ferrari badge in the ground and on investigation found a pile of buried sports cars. It is ok to bury cars on your land if you have no further use but not if you have claimed on insurance for their disappearance.
We set off by the River Lea. A gently burbling stream running through woodland and meadows. It feels good to be alive and great to be outdoors. We get talking and I notice that even though we see each other three days a week there is still no shortage of things to talk about. Men are not supposed to be like this! When Alex my eldest son was growing up I sometimes used to put my hand up and say 'stop a moment'. I would then look in his mouth and say 'I thought so.....it is bursting full of words rushing to get out'. I almost did the same with Rob this morning but didn't need to as it was clear his mouth was full to overflowing with words to be said. He had good reason. We played a bridge match last night in a competition online which we drew but should have won. Once we had settled the rules that our conversation would be about the 'learning opportunities' from the match we then hurtled through half a dozen hands with Rob in full flow as teacher and me as the learner. And I put it here on record that this was the right way round as I did create the most learning opportunities last night!

At the start of todays walk we discussed who would lead the walk today. Rob is the most amazing map instruction follower you will ever come across - no chance of extra detours such as those when I was map reading. I said I had proven I could not be trusted for fear of us getting lost. Rob wanted a day off but took on the role. As we progressed along the walk we saw what a win win this was. He correctly hauled me back from directions I wanted to go and kept us on the right paths. I could congratulate myself on having given him the map reading task and he could congratulate himself on getting us to where we wanted to go.

After the River Lea and along the valley we came upon Lamerwood Golf Club in Lamer Park. As we entered we soon noticed there were no golfers on the immaculate fairways. This was strange for such a lovely spring day. Coming towards us was Paddy Shaw walking his dogs who was able to tell us the golf course had closed last Wednesday. The Japanese owners had sold 6 months ago to someone who was going to develop the club but who then sold it on to an individual who is now going to live on the course. Paddy had been a member and is now going to miss what looks like a lovely course. This seems to be a story of golf courses now. Having gone from waiting lists of years to get in you can get in most places easily now and many clubs are going bust.


As we progress along the path by the golf course we see a group of Lamerwood Ladies hurtling towards us with intent on their faces. About 30 of them and one way up front happy to say good morning but going places and not stopping for a chat. We don't know who they are but the lady at the front did say to Rob 'they just won't keep up'.

Further along we meet Craig who is cutting back trees and doing tidying up work on the golf course. He was a greenkeeper on the course who has been kept on by the new owner to keep the place tidy. Everyone else has been laid off. Craig was able to confirm Paddy's story and tell us the new owner does want to live on the course. As keen golfers Rob and I marvel at the notion of owning your own golf course and being able to step outside your house and play.

I am able to do some teaching as we continue. Being a city boy Rob does not yet know the country code of closing gates behind him. I point it out to him and show him what needs to be done.
We wander in to Ayot St Lawrence. A delightful place with Shaw's Corner where George Bernard Shaw wrote in his hut at the bottom of the garden and lived in the modest but grand house.
There must also be a fascinating story in the history of the village as there is an unrestored 13th century church in a perfect location and an incongruous Grecian style church built in the 18th century.
The old church became redundant and provided building material for the new church. If anyone knows the story do let us know why the old church was not restored to glory and where the idea of a Grecian model came from.
We were in Ayot St Lawrence around 11am and came upon two other walkers like ourselves ready for a cup of tea. In the village is the Brocket Arms with a welcoming sign outside saying 'Morning Coffee'. The four of us head inside and ask if we can have coffee and tea to be told 'sorry we don't open until 12'. Rob and I knew this line from a previous visit last summer when we got the same reply. We thought this time that four customers wanting drinks might interest the publican but business must be so good there is no longer a need for the 'morning coffee' advertised to be provided. Once we overcame the disappointment of not getting the tea we were looking forward to we sat down by the church and basked in the sun. Once again we thought....isn't life great. I also think at these moments it would be great for Karen and me to be together here but we can't. These steps remain ones of hope for her and young people being struck down by MS now that one day a cure will be found for this horrible disease.

Lunch in The Waggoners towards the end of our walk. Smoked salmon baguettes for both of us. No burger or steak and ale pie or fries. We are getting the hang of this healthy eating lark and you do feel much better for it when you walk on.
Tonight Rob is on London Greek radio giving a live interview and talking about the cause. This has been organised by Maria....well done Maria. We will try and get a copy up on the blog or the web site.

Tomorrow the Romans of St Albans and the Ver valley meaning for those of you joining us on Sunday we will complete our 200th mile while you are with us.

Walk 12 - 15.0 miles - Total 174.1 miles - To Go 825.9 miles

London Loop. Section 1 Erith to Old Bexley, Section 2 Old Bexley to Petts Wood.




Today we finished the 150 miles of the London Loop!!. We were both quiet and exhausted at the end and realising we have much to do to raise our fitness to what is necessary for Offa's Dyke in May. I think tomorrow morning we will feel better about it and can celebrate properly but this afternoon we were wiped out.

We started at 6.30 this morning heading for Erith on the Thames Estuary and Sarah Cox is asking for requests to be a dj after the 6.30 spot. She positions her request with 'whatever you are doing at 6am on a Saturday morning give me your requests...you might be milking the cows, returning from a night shift, delivering milk or a new mum....'. I look around me and see completely empty roads and realise not a lot goes on at 6.30 on a Saturday morning. But today we are going to complete the Loop so the early start is good and we might get back in time to watch some football on TV as well.

We tip toe out of Mario and Klea's house, our wondeful hosts for the past 2 days. With sons Andrew and Demos and Andrew's fiancee Nadia, they are a lovely family. The food was GREAT and even their 2 dogs welcomed us into their domain. Thank you all for your superb hospitality.


We leave one car at Petts Wood and Rob jumps out to make a contribution to Tony's effort down to the Med for MS (see yesterday's blog) and drive to Erith. We head off from Erith along the Thames Path. It is a scene that reminds us of The Road (by Cormac McCarthy) which I recommended to Rob and he finished last night. Don't read it if you can't deal with misery but if you like Sibelius it is an amazingly good book....both deeply sad and uplifting (I cried at the end).Rob thought the ending was unrealistically uplifting and had some other, far more depressing ideas on how it should finish in keeping with our surroundings by the river. If you want a view of what the world looks like close to the end, as in the Road, with desolation all around, dark grey skies and a bitter wind biting in to your face then do this part of the Loop by the Thames on a miserable February day. It really is desolation well done. Occassionaly the sun provided a distraction through the clouds with shafts coming down on to the Queen Elizabeth bridge at Dartford. We tried to capture the scene in difficult lighting conditions and took a number of shots. Our best effort is shown here and we leave you to judge.

We eventually move along the Cray River. After five miles we are ready for a cup of tea but don't know where to go in this wasteland. Rob asks a local and we are told there might be a place half a mile up the road. Rob tells me that means half a mile off the track and half a mile back....do we want to do that with the risk it might not be open.
As we talk Pete Rutherfood pulls up behind us on his bike and asks us where we are walking to. He is completing his 27 mile Saturday morning bike ride. He tells us the place we are thinking of for tea is closed on the weekend and suggests we head to a cafe in a couple of miles. We give him a leaflet and say a big thanks for the advice.

We walk along Cray River and after another half hour Pete catches up with us and tells us he has read our handout and insists on giving us a contribution. All these people who have been touched by our cause really motivate us and give us good thoughts about human nature. There are some wonderful people out there. Pete walked along with us by the Cray and told us the tale of the man who looks after that part of the river. There is a one winged Swan who has a mate and last year was able to raise a Signet there with the help of this local protector.
We say farewell to Pete and stop at his recommended Cray Cafe. I shock Robert by ordering a full English and he shocks the waiter in the cafe by photographing it. What is he doing he asks?.....I think...he is doing the same as the fisherman throwing his caught fish back in to the lake....'I don't get it'.
The rest of the walk is a blur. To try and forget the pain we try to imagine how Bridge and Terry avoid the handshake and the songs the fans can come up with to capture the moment. After ten miles into our third successive day of walking tiredness is having its effect. We want to end......

Then we do. We have finished the London Loop at Petts Wood. Hoooooooooraaaaaaay. We done it - 45 miles in 3 days. A long way to go but it feels good to have got to one milestone. We have transversed London and seen many things and had many experiences. Rob will capture his recollections on The Loop overall in another blog. We say well done to each other in a very understated English/Greek way and look forward to the remaining 800+ miles ahead.

Walk 11 - 13.4 miles - Total 159.1 miles - To Go 840.9 miles

London Loop: Section 3 Petts Wood to West Wickham Common, Section 4 West Wickham Common to Addington.






Even counting sheep could not save us from snore shortened sleep as we took it in turns to disturb each others recuperative rest. Our first time sharing a room on our walks and we both hope our last. Sleep is going to be one of the most important ingredients of success in our 1000 mile, 2 million footstep endeavor. Rain is threatened again as we leave at 7am to start but apart from a few spots at the start there is none.
We start with an amazing coincidence at Petts Wood Station. We need batteries for our GPS device so wander over to the Station newsagent. First thing we notice is the Daily Mirror Headline 'Ashley begs forgiveness from Cheryl from his clinic'. We couldn't possibly buy a copy so have to wait until later in the day when we will come across a left over copy in one of our watering holes. What clinic could it be, is Ashley a cad and a bounder, should Cheryl forgive him, will they get back together. So much fodder for our first few miles. At the newsagent Tony is serving and sells us our batteries and always welcome first cup of tea. He asks where we are walking and we tell him our 1000 mile tale. He is very impressed and says it makes his effort in May seem insignificant. He tells us he is 'only' cycling down to the Med via the Massive Central. We tell him that is amazing and wish him well with his venture. He is doing it for the Multiple Sclerosis Society and helping his friend Phil whose wife had MS. Good luck Tony and we hope you get lots of support from all those commuters passing your way in Petts Wood. Send us details of your effort. The MS fight is a big one and we need as many armies as we can get to find ways of fighting the terrible tortures it targets on its victims.

We take on our biggest climb yet up to Holwood. Not only steep but a slushy slippery muddy path all the way to the top making for strenuous and slow progress. The view is worth it and we are also in for a surprise not mentioned in the loop literature. This is the spot where Lord Wilberforce stopped on a walk in 1788 prior to the steep descent to the Vale of Keston, after a conversation with Mr Pitt under an oak at his estate, sat on a bench surveying this same view and took the decision to go to the Commons and abolish slavery. I am struck by this history and try to imagine the moment. The horrors mankind can unleash on each other and moments when people realise the massive wrongs being done and intervene to stop it. We can't believe the loop literature makes no mention of such a historic moment.

We descend in to the Vale of Keston and down to Keston ponds where a number or fishermen are fishing and failing. Rob asks in a bemused way what they do with the fish they catch (when they do catch one) and is told they throw them back - he looks at the fishermen and says 'I don't get it'. A couple of guys have really up market mini tents with a full size bed and provisions parked next to their rods all alarmed for a catch. They were up last night in the torrential rain which must have been quite a noise inside the tent and all for one fish caught between them.

We work our way through Wickam Common and stop to ask three ladies on horseback where we could get a good lunch. They make some suggestions. Eventually we find the Omega Cafe in West Wickam and grab it as our bird in the hand versus possibilities that may or may not exist in the next five miles. A perfect cafe where we get a sandwich and a drink each all for a fiver and then your cheapest tea at 50p a cup. But most important of all we find copies of the Mirror and Star and discover Ashley's clinic is not a sex clinic a la Tiger Woods but a sports clinic for his injury.
We brief ourselves on the Cole's or (Tweedie and Cole?) and the latest on the Bridge Terry affair so we can continue our dialogue after lunch. This ends up with a wager as we walk on. I have bet Rob £5 that Cherly will be back with Ashley before we finish Offa's Dyke in May. Rob is confident Cheryl is too smart to let this happen. We both agree that if she does go back to him he will misbehave again before we complete our 1000 miles.

Today has felt much easier with some sun on our backs and no rain. We arrive back for more welcoming hospitality with Klea and Mario in Purley looking forward to yet more fine dining, good conversation followed by seperate rooms and a good long sleep. Tomorrow we finish the 150 miles of the London Loop.

Walk 10 - 15.3 miles - Total 145.7 miles - To Go 854.3 miles

London Loop: Section 4 from Addington to Hamsey Green, Section 5 Hamsey Green to Coulsdon South, Section 6 Coulsdon South to Banstead Downs






Sitting here in the warm hospitality of Mario and Klea and Andrew, Nadia and Demos with the rain thundering on the windows outside we almost forget what a miserable day today was for walking.
Klea has just cooked a wonderful reviving meal and all the gloom that had built up by 5pm has now evaporated. We are enthusiastically looking forward to tomorrow morning and a better day ahead.

The start today was pleasant enough. A bit of sun and blue sky for the first few miles. Today's sections feature our first challenging hills with some steep inclines making us realise we will need to get a lot fitter for Offa's Dyke. I am itching for my second cup of tea having taken two hours to get to the start at Banstead Station. I have to wait until we have completed four miles but the wait is worth it at Ozzi's BIG BREAKFAST in Hamsey Green. As we go in Rob has drawn attention to us by asking me to pose outside the cafe as I enter. He loves the name and look of the place. It does not disappoint. As we enter Anthony from Wolverhampton asks us what we are up to. When we tell him he kindly insists on buying us a cup of tea and makes a contribution to the cause. He has an interesting occupation buying and selling old Rolls Royces and Bentleys. He has just delivered a 1950's Bentley to a customer near by. Business is good with lots of interest from Europeans, particularly Polish, with the strength of the Euro. The tea is top. Builders best and at 60 pence a mug and the place is spotlessly clean and full of smiles.


We carry on to Coulsden and on the way bump in to Alex from Stoke Newington. Walking alone he tells us he has walked the London Loop at least twenty times. We are impressed. He tells us we face mud and hills ahead and the toughest conditions for the Loop. We walk along and talk for a while. He talks about the beauty of the Loop and for him how he can leave the house with 10p in his pocket, walk all day and end up with 10p in his pocket in the evening. I wonder how he does this via the pub he is about to visit but maybe that was another day.

Further on we come upon a Downlands Project carrying out coppicing in Kenley woods. We talked with Graham who explained how they were clearing views within the trees to introduce new wildlife and new views for walkers. A mixture of volunteers, the Downlands Project and local workers are busy at work in an organised way.
The weather is now declining as we enter Happy Valley. Rob says this is probably quite nice on a sunny day.

On Farthingdown ridge with what would be great views on a sunny day we catch up with the Croydon Retirement Walking Group. A group of ladies who are just finishing a 4 mile walk and doing so with lots of smiles and happy chatter.
Lunch at the Pembroke in Coulsdon which I am grateful we make without incident. On the way in Rob does his usual wandering in the road expecting all traffic to drive round him as if he were in a Cypriot village. One angry driver hoots and aims at him as if to say here in England roads are for cars not for Greeks. Rob resists the meat pies, burgers and fries and settles on a lasagna.

As we leave the Pembroke Rob says how lucky we have been to miss the rain. Within five paces the first spots fall. Rob with his optimistic manner tells me we are still lucky cos it is light rain.
Ten paces later it is a torrential downpoor which gets heavier and heavier and the sky greyer and greyer and the mud thicker and slippier and the puddles deeper and deeper. This section was thoroughly miserable and ends with us covered in , wet inside and outside and long faces. In we go to the welcome of Klea and Mario looking after us tonight and saving us 140 mile round trips to tomorrows start within half an hour and a shower we are revived and like yachtsmen after a stormy sea telling tales of how great the day was.

Walk 9 - 15.2 miles - Total 130.4 miles - To Go 869.6 miles

London Loop: Section 7 from Banstead Downs to Ewell, Section 8 from Ewell to Kingston Bridge and Section 9 Kingston Bridge to Fulwell.






It is a deep dark of night as I rise for yet another early start. Get ready quietly then brush Karen's cheek with a gentle kiss farewell and she half asleep dreamily blows a kiss and whispers 'enjoy it my hero'. I hope she goes back to her peaceful dream before she needs to wake and face the pains and struggles of her day ahead. I also hope the team in Cambridge and around the world are making progress in their search for a key to release Karen and people like her from the torture chamber of MS.

Today is Hogsmill, Thames, Downs and tales of Saxon Kings. We start at Banstead and head off towards Ewell. Ahead of us we see spectres, spooks, ghosts and ghouls. All floating and flying around gossiping with each other about what we will get up to today. We hand out leaflets to them and tell them to visit the web site. Weeeeeee wiiiiiillllll...they tell us. Great... all contributions welcome. We are on Ghost road, so called as it had been started before the war with the expectation of more housing to be built along it. After the war the Green Belt was established so the houses were never built and the road got its name.

This is all near Nonsuch Park where Nonsuch Palace had been built by Henry VIII for £25,000. He built it with the intention that there would no better Palace on the planet....hence it's name. Apparently very grand but now nowhere to be seen. Today the Park is a dog's paradise - they are out with their masters in their hundreds enjoying the first sunny day for a while; to escape snarling canines and their deposits, Rob resorts to biblical powers.



After only 4 miles we are allowed a cup of tea at Ganache in Ewell. Rob knows I don't really get going with conversation until I have had my second cup. But he has found a real gem of a tea shop. Caringly laid out with personal table service and nothing like Starbucks. Teresa (no h just like Rob's sister) joins us to find out what we are up to and offers to capture us on camera.
For the first time in all our walks I see someone pick up Rob's camera and use it professionally...we pose and she captures us using props from the tea shop to remind us where we have been.



Later at St John the Baptist church in Malden we stop to study the history and rest Rob's back. He is still in a lot of pain and heroically walking on. The church is in a lovely spot and with the sun shining and warming us it is a spring type moment. We talk to some local ladies who tell us the link of the church to Lewis from Inspector Morse.He was on tv recently tracing his family tree and found a famous relative here who had been a big wig in the Bank of England.....or rather he found his tomb here. They took a photo of us for their church notice board....so if you are reading this ladies..here is the photo and contact Rob and he will send you a copy. When we appear on BBC Breakfast news in April you can tell the parisheners we were visitors at your church early in our efforts.


We are impressed we have reached Kingston by 1pm and covered 11 miles already. Rob is keen to have a light lunch....just like Kim's sandwhich he said. I go for the smoked salmon and cream cheese bagel which Rob worries is not enough for me. He fancies a burger which I point out is not light or like Kim's sandwhich. Anyway he goes for it. A fine lunch with those big fat cut chips. As we set off across Bushey Park Rob complains of stomach cramps to add to his bad back. Why did I have that burger he asks? Because you wanted it I remind him. In Bushey Park the surprising sight is of green parakeets in a tree. We talk to a local fisherman who is failing to catch perch and ask him about them. He says the story is they were used on a film set at Shepperton 20 years ago and escaped and are now breading and establishing quite a hold in Bushey Park....much to the annoyance of local seed eaters who are seeing their foodstore stolen by these intruders.


A wonderful walk today. Sunshine, warmth and some lovely views to stop and take time over. Rob is to be admired for the way he struggled on. The final two miles sounded and looked agony as he tenderly protected his back. Back at Fulwell we met Ollie from Teddington who asked us about our walk and how far we had done today. Now in the swing I said 'just 15 miles today'...wow! 15 miles he said...well done. He then captured us on film as I am sure this will be one of the most painful memories for Rob when we look back. I had my customary two hour drive home (Rob took 3 hours courtesy of the closure of Dartford tunnel)during which I listened to some JLS and Lady Ga Ga....which I must confess I actually thought were quite good.

Walk 8 - 12.5 miles - Total 115.2 miles - To Go 884.8 miles

Sections 11 from West Drayton to Hayes and Harlington; Section 10 Hayes and Harlington to Hatton Cross; half of Section 9 from Hatton Cross to Fulwell

Rain, rain, traffic, pain, planes and more rain were on the menu today. Up at 5.15 and leave at 6 to head off for West Drayton. M1, M25 and M4 what a dish. M25 clogged up and stationary as I reach it at 6.30. We are both on time and start from Fulwell. On a summers day with the sun shining, flowers in full bloom, birds singing and an outrageous imagination it might be possible to find some parts of this walk to get excited about. No....not even then. Miserable. Rob bends down in the rain to keep his map dry at the start and his back goes in to spasm as he gets up. He was in pain and gingerly walked the first couple of miles as if on egg shells. Back pain is horrible but he vows to carry on. I am worried about him for tomorrow and hope his physio can sort him out tonight.

We follow much of the River Crane. Mud, puddles and the clouds dropping their big fat bellies right down to the ground to weigh down our steps. Rob wails some more but on we go as Nurofen dulls the pain. This must be where the phrase completing the circle comes in or, in this case, the loop. There can be no other reason for doing this section. We must to complete the loop. It is busy roads, Heathrow hangers with just a little respite along our friend the Grand Union Canal. There was a moment of sunshine as we meet Mei from Bangkopk in her cafe near Hayes. Not at the heights of Kim's sandwich but she did make a wonderful mug of tea....a real mug...with cartoons on the side and probably as big as a pint pot. There was also a copy of the Sun (on a table again...honest) so we could debate what Cheryl Cole should do with Ashley Cole. We used Vicky Christina Barcelona as an illustration of different responses...great film Karen and I watched last night. Mei had a picture of the King and Queen of Thailand up so we talked to her about Bangkok. I love the palaces and the river there but she said here is much better. I look outside and look at her again and think....that is an outrageous imagination.

Excitement under the Heathrow flightpath as we stop and watch the planes come in every two minutes. The noise is unbelievable and the planes appear to be a matter of feet from the rooftops of local houses. How do people put up with such noise all day long? Rob and I remember flights in to the old Hong Kong airport where you could see people hanging their washing in their appartments before the steep descent to the runway.

Along the canal we pass the Nestle coffee factory built in 1938 the year after Nestle invented instant coffee. A real factory scene Lowry would have enjoyed painting and complements the experience of the day.



Once again we found any pub we plan to go to along the way has shut or is up for sale. It is as if they have heard we are coming and have to leave town before we arrive. We do find an Indian restaurant Asha in Hayes. It is a clean smart restaurant and we both look like dirty drowned rats wet from head to foot with thick mud clinging to our boots. But we are allowed in and looked after very well. I discover that Rob has rarely eaten Indian food and is suspicious. I had a chicken jalfraisi and he had a king prawn korma (Rob also doesn't like chicken....almost as fussy as my dad with his food). Actually was a really good curry and needed to be at £10 per course which I explained to Rob is a lot for a curry.

Back at West Drayton Rob drives his car back to mine at Fulwell. He notices a police car behind us and becomes extremely up tight. I ask him what he has done. Nothing he says but they make me nervous. They pull up beside us at the lights and Rob says...'what have I done...look at the way they are looking at me'. I make a note to probe further in to this phobia in the future.

Walk 7 - 13.8 miles - Total 102.7 miles - To Go 897.3 miles

Section 22 Harold Wood to Upminster; Section 23 Upminster to Rainham; Section 24 Rainham to Purfleet

Load up and ready to go by 6.30. Today's challenge is that it is sleeting heavily so even a 5 yard walk to the car has me drenched. On with GPS and realise big underestimate of journey. It is 70 miles to destination and said I would meet Rob at 7.30. Then the news tells of pile up on M1 near us so diverted traffic will slow me down. All those thoughts come crashing in and then I breath in and say they are all just thoughts. Today will be great...put on some Chopin, keep calm and head off.

We meet at Purfleet Station and boy is it grey, miserable and heavy...that is the word heavy. I observe this thought and think better ones. Great to see Rob's face and words of 'come on lets just get this done'. We drive to Harold Wood, park and set off. We capture evidence of the weather at the start in front of the expensive cab office we used on a previous section. Rob, ever the artist, takes his time to snap and prevents a lady from passing on the pavement. She is patient but then wants to be on her way and says with feeling 'he is a right David Bailey isn't he?'. As we walk on I try to explain to Rob that she is being ironic but as with earlier compliments about his fine chest and sturdy legs (see Walk 5) he thinks she is being genuine and his photography classes are working.

Our theme for today is what is wonderful about today? The walk from Purfleet to Upminster in the rain warms us up to this theme. We even manage to get excited about the overwhelming browns and greys around us. We find a cafe in Upminster for our cup of tea and can appreciate sitting in the rain and cold outside the cafe - now we are into our theme! A lady laughs at us as we capture a picture of these two drowned rats in the window. We set off past a Windmill on our way to Rainham. This is a very pretty section. Lots more shades of dull brown and grey...admittedly with the odd flash of gorse yellow. A long conversation started with the question 'What is Rob Kyprianou?'. Karen pleased that someone else has to put up with these ridiculous questions. Rob rises to it and we are in to discussions about space time coordinates, parallel universes and the essence of a person. Some wonderful theories and they all made sense at the time but now no recollection of the answer. Later we saw in the Daily Mirror (honest we picked it up off a table) a picture of Steven Gerrard next to his Tussaud's copy. Which was which I asked and how do you know? Rob thought he knew but was not sure and hoped Rafa could pick both for Liverpool's next game. Along the way we came upon a Rafa Mourhino dream....the perfect nil nil...look at the picture. Surely nobody can score.

The last section goes across Rainham Marshes and by the Thames. Here we bump in to Bob of Rainham taking a walk by the river.He talks to us about the Tilda rice factory, the concrete barges used in the war to block the Thames from invaders and the Jules Verne like diver statue rising from the water. Quite earie. Bob joins us for a walk and a chat. Lovely guy whose company and stories we enjoyed. He took photos of us crossing 100 miles and then left us. Our 100 mile point is memorably called Coldharbour Point and is opposite Erith on the Thames and between Rainham and Purfleet.





Further along we came upon RSPB official Phil who told us he had just seen an Icelandic White Gull. Very rare and a significant sighting. We could not see it now but he had called another 'birder' to confirm the sighting. We talk about the place and then move on. About half a mile later we come across the other birder who has the Icelandic visitor in his sights. A totally white gull with no other markings. Very impressive and we view it in his viewfinder.

In between the sun came out briefly and the rain and sleet did stop. It was a wonderful day with only a few of the great things about it captured here. 100 miles done and a lot of great memories already. Remember most things are just a thought and make sure you have the best one for you.

Next week we start the southern section of the London Loop.