Friday 9 April 2010

Walk 18 -9.0 miles - Total 242.5 miles - To Go 757.5 miles


Pathfinder Dorset Walk 23 - The Heart of Hardy Country - Higher Bockhampton, Thomas Hardy Cottage, Waterston Ridge, Stinford and Higher Bockhampton.





What a treat today. Rob and I are both readers of all the Thomas Hardy books in our youth. The wonderful Tess of the D'Urbevilles and Far from the Madding Crowd and the oh so sad and gloomy but so well written Jude the Obscure. Memories of poetic descriptions of the countryside around Dorchester/Barchester whetting our appetite as we walk around the places of his inspiration and visit the cottage in which he wrote 'Far from' and 'Under the Greenwood tree'. We are not disappointed. We start near his cottage and reflect on being close to such literary genius. It is closed for refurbishment and we see a planning application for a ticket office. On seeing this Rob tells me he will add to his will a clause that no ticket offices can be set up by his house for future generations. I tell him not to worry about this! The cottage is in a tranquil spot in the middle of a wood with wonderful views all around and a lovely cottage garden to wander around as those mind massaging sentences work their way through the unconscious until they emerge requesting a place on the page.
We walk along a while and meet Peter and Meg Mountenay out on their morning walk. Enjoying retirement they are interested in what we are doing as their daughter in law has MS and is really struggling. They understand the horrors of this disease and wish us well with our efforts to raise funds for research and give hope. They had read about and supported the work of Professor Robin Franklin.

We now head off towards the Waterston Ridge. I love all the names around us with Puddleston, Dorchester, Charminstor and Stimford all in our orbit. As we walk along the ridge I point out great tits and skylarks that appear to be joining us on our walk. The tits seemed to keep about 10 paces ahead as if leading us on. We stop along the ridge at a memorial to Richard Spicer, who died in 2007 at the age of 21, looking out on a typically wonderful Hardy countryside view. We don't know what happened to Richard but it reinforces to all of us the importance of enjoying each day we have on this earth as we never know how long we have. The view is wonderful and we take a break and just take it in. We are so lucky to have this great weather to appreciate it.
I start a poem which needs much more work but here is the start.....
Scene of ridge hill and plain
Conjures up a sweet refrain
Man's hand writ large on the land
Tilled, furrowed, farmed all nature banned
Hardy with words describes
Scenes of beauty man now hides
.....well lots more work to do...but so enjoyable to write.

We continue on in to Higher Kingston Farm. On our left a herd of bullocks charges towards a very fragile fence between us and them. Rob playfully thinks this is fun and has his camera out for shots. I must confess my heart beats faster as the fragile fence is between us and a trampling. On our right a procession of tractors pulling smelly fertiliser and spreading it across the field. I wave to each tractor driver and consistent with all the friendliness of people down here every one waves back.The smell is very farmy! We come upon the source of the fertiliser and meet Stewart Holland who tells us the fascinating science of recycling cow shit. He is lifting stone covers that have been in place for twelve years and underneath house the slurry from the cow shed. All their bodily discharges flow through this space and creates the fertiliser that was being spread on the field we saw earlier. Every twelve years they have to clear out the sludge at the bottom that gathers. What a smell and what a sight but Stewart is no longer disturbed by the smell and just gets on with his job.


On to Stinsford Church where Thomas Hardy's heart is buried with his parents and wives. The rest of his ashes are in poets corner at Westminster Abbey. A very tranquil spot again as we think about him going for his walk from his cottage by the Frome to the church and playing viola and violin with his father in the church. The church is really well kept inside for a congregation of less than 300 but with visitors of thousands from all over the world coming to pay their respects to the great Thomas Hardy. Sheila is doing a fantastic job making it sparkle for visitors. We meet Dorothy and Alan Gregson from Burnley. Rob actually identifies the accent from his visits to his sister at nearby Blackburn. Rob and Alan exchange talk about places they both know up there. Dorothy is clearly well versed in Hardy books and aspects of his life also. A pleasure to meet Sheila and Dorothy and Alan in such a wonderful spot.

We reach the end of this first walk today and I am intrigued by the Volkswagon Camper in the car park. Images of the 60's, flowerpower and stories from friends who travelled Europe and Australia in similar models. We meet Barb the owner and her daughter Jenny and I ask if it really can be a travelling home. Wonderfully it is. Barb has been to Spain in it, travelled extensivelly in the UK and shows me the sleeping arrangements and living quarters. I lose her to Rob as he and her share their interest in photography. Then we meet Bec and Stuart who with Jenny are studying at Weymouth College. They are all preparing, as part of the Patchwork Theatre Company, their version of Midsummer Night's Dream. They will be performing at Weymouth College on June 18th and then taking the show on tour. Go get tickets and support them in their show. Get in touch with them at patchworktheatre@hotmail.co.uk for more details.
Now off to Corfe Castle.......

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