Walk 13 - 10.5 miles - Total 184.6 miles - To Go 814.4 miles

Pathfinder Guide 54 Walk 27: Brocket Park, The River Lea and The Ayots




We can't believe it. We wake to a cold spring like day and the conditions are great for walking. We meet at Brocket Hall with its stunning views across the Broadwater and to Lord Brockets old home. These are the grounds of the famed buried Ferrari's that lead to Lord Brocket spending some time at Her Majesty's pleasure. Local folklore has it that a policeman walking through the grounds noticed a Ferrari badge in the ground and on investigation found a pile of buried sports cars. It is ok to bury cars on your land if you have no further use but not if you have claimed on insurance for their disappearance.
We set off by the River Lea. A gently burbling stream running through woodland and meadows. It feels good to be alive and great to be outdoors. We get talking and I notice that even though we see each other three days a week there is still no shortage of things to talk about. Men are not supposed to be like this! When Alex my eldest son was growing up I sometimes used to put my hand up and say 'stop a moment'. I would then look in his mouth and say 'I thought so.....it is bursting full of words rushing to get out'. I almost did the same with Rob this morning but didn't need to as it was clear his mouth was full to overflowing with words to be said. He had good reason. We played a bridge match last night in a competition online which we drew but should have won. Once we had settled the rules that our conversation would be about the 'learning opportunities' from the match we then hurtled through half a dozen hands with Rob in full flow as teacher and me as the learner. And I put it here on record that this was the right way round as I did create the most learning opportunities last night!

At the start of todays walk we discussed who would lead the walk today. Rob is the most amazing map instruction follower you will ever come across - no chance of extra detours such as those when I was map reading. I said I had proven I could not be trusted for fear of us getting lost. Rob wanted a day off but took on the role. As we progressed along the walk we saw what a win win this was. He correctly hauled me back from directions I wanted to go and kept us on the right paths. I could congratulate myself on having given him the map reading task and he could congratulate himself on getting us to where we wanted to go.

After the River Lea and along the valley we came upon Lamerwood Golf Club in Lamer Park. As we entered we soon noticed there were no golfers on the immaculate fairways. This was strange for such a lovely spring day. Coming towards us was Paddy Shaw walking his dogs who was able to tell us the golf course had closed last Wednesday. The Japanese owners had sold 6 months ago to someone who was going to develop the club but who then sold it on to an individual who is now going to live on the course. Paddy had been a member and is now going to miss what looks like a lovely course. This seems to be a story of golf courses now. Having gone from waiting lists of years to get in you can get in most places easily now and many clubs are going bust.


As we progress along the path by the golf course we see a group of Lamerwood Ladies hurtling towards us with intent on their faces. About 30 of them and one way up front happy to say good morning but going places and not stopping for a chat. We don't know who they are but the lady at the front did say to Rob 'they just won't keep up'.

Further along we meet Craig who is cutting back trees and doing tidying up work on the golf course. He was a greenkeeper on the course who has been kept on by the new owner to keep the place tidy. Everyone else has been laid off. Craig was able to confirm Paddy's story and tell us the new owner does want to live on the course. As keen golfers Rob and I marvel at the notion of owning your own golf course and being able to step outside your house and play.

I am able to do some teaching as we continue. Being a city boy Rob does not yet know the country code of closing gates behind him. I point it out to him and show him what needs to be done.
We wander in to Ayot St Lawrence. A delightful place with Shaw's Corner where George Bernard Shaw wrote in his hut at the bottom of the garden and lived in the modest but grand house.
There must also be a fascinating story in the history of the village as there is an unrestored 13th century church in a perfect location and an incongruous Grecian style church built in the 18th century.
The old church became redundant and provided building material for the new church. If anyone knows the story do let us know why the old church was not restored to glory and where the idea of a Grecian model came from.
We were in Ayot St Lawrence around 11am and came upon two other walkers like ourselves ready for a cup of tea. In the village is the Brocket Arms with a welcoming sign outside saying 'Morning Coffee'. The four of us head inside and ask if we can have coffee and tea to be told 'sorry we don't open until 12'. Rob and I knew this line from a previous visit last summer when we got the same reply. We thought this time that four customers wanting drinks might interest the publican but business must be so good there is no longer a need for the 'morning coffee' advertised to be provided. Once we overcame the disappointment of not getting the tea we were looking forward to we sat down by the church and basked in the sun. Once again we thought....isn't life great. I also think at these moments it would be great for Karen and me to be together here but we can't. These steps remain ones of hope for her and young people being struck down by MS now that one day a cure will be found for this horrible disease.

Lunch in The Waggoners towards the end of our walk. Smoked salmon baguettes for both of us. No burger or steak and ale pie or fries. We are getting the hang of this healthy eating lark and you do feel much better for it when you walk on.
Tonight Rob is on London Greek radio giving a live interview and talking about the cause. This has been organised by Maria....well done Maria. We will try and get a copy up on the blog or the web site.

Tomorrow the Romans of St Albans and the Ver valley meaning for those of you joining us on Sunday we will complete our 200th mile while you are with us.