Walk 64 (C2C 15) - 15.8 miles - Total 889.0 miles - To Go 111 miles

A Walk for Patsy, Sarah and everyone with MS.

Grosmont, Sleight's Moor, Littlebeck, Falling Foss, Sneaton Low Moor, Graystone Hills, Low Hawsker, High Hawsker, Round the Headland and down in to Robin Hood's Bay.


Wainwright

'Excitement is now at fever pitch as gulls scream a raucous welcome. Here is the cliff path that ends in the streets of Robin Hood's Bay (and, incidentally, is used also by the long distance Cleveland Way). Here is the lofty headland above Maw Wyke Hole as a prelude to a magnificent high level traverse with many dramatic glimpses of waves pounding the rocks below. This final section is a counterpoint to the first - an exhilarating three mile walk along the edge of cliffs, but this time with spirits uplifted by the realisation that nothing can now happen to prevent a successful ending, that within an hour it will be finished.'

First and last days are special days. Starting out and getting going or finishing off and winding down. We get a boost before breakfast with a well wishing call from Viv our companion on Hadrian's Wall. It was great to hear from you Viv and everything you told us about this walk was true. Including the bit about what happens as we turn left out of Grosmont and go up the up the up the and up the hill. But before we go there is a drive past of about 50 Triumphs returning from wherever they were going yesterday and we think it encouraging they have timed their run to give us a good send off. Local residents come out to hear what all the noise is about and Rob suggests this is great excitement for Grosmont today to which the repost is this is the most exciting thing all year in Grosmont! A lovely place.

We head up the hill and look back at Grosmont in the valley. Then we go through a mix of moors and beck side walking. Taking in Falling Foss and the Hermits home.

We are intrigued that when we are only about two miles from Robin Hood's Bay there is still 6 miles to walk. But it is worth it and the highlight of the day is the walk along the headland so well described by Wainwright above. There are steep falls and great walls down to the sea where the waves are crashing against the rocks. We arrive in the Bay and Rob tosses his pebble in to the sea from St Bees and we adjourn to the Wainwright Bar in the Bay Hotel where we slap backs, shake hands and join a warm crowd of friends for a well earned beer.


Boy this feels good and we are very pleased with ourselves and our acheivement.

This is a very special walk with so many happy memories, new friendships, shared experiences and really shows off what a wonderful place England is to walk in. Much of it shown off by Robs brilliant photographs along the way.
We now hope for progress with research as Robin and his team break down the barriers on the way for a treatment for everyone with MS. We hope the gods listened to our request.

Walk 63 (C2C 14) - 14.9 miles - Total 873.2 miles - To Go 126.8 miles

A Walk for Patsy, Sarah and everyone with MS

Blakey Ridge, Great Fryup Dale, Glaisdale, Beggars Bridge and Grosmont.






Wainwright

'The watershed is crossed, the wild moors left behind and a descent made into the beautiful valley of Eskdale. The loneliness of the last few days is ended by mingling with fellow creatures and the companionship of the lovely river, and the silences of the heights replaced by the sounds of civilisation; there are houses and shops again and even an active railway. The landscape, no longer sombre, becomes richly wooded and verdant, and the day's walk is designed to ensure that there is time to enjoy it at a leisurely pace.'

We leave the remote but massive Lion Hotel behind us. We approached from behind across 21 miles of moorland but the place is packed with tourists arriving on one of the few roads across the moors. The sun is out this morning and we see the heather in all its colourful glory. We are alone again and quickly we feel the silence which is occassionaly punctuated by the distinctive chuckle of the grouse. The views are amazing and we just walk along taking them in, looking around and letting nature's lighting show off the different hues, moods and textures of moorland scenery.
Heavy showers pass through in the distance, clouds pass overhead to cast light here and shadow there, the sun comes out to light up the heather and to cap it all we get a full rainbow where we look for the pot of gold at the end that will give us the funds to accelerate a treatment for people with MS. We get our first glimpse of the NOrth Sea and soon discover it is only 8 miles away and somehow Wainwright is going to take us a further 20 to get there. We trust in him as he seems to know what he was talking about and we have really enjoyed his walk.

Although quiet and lonely the moors are an active place. Early on while still on the road we see dozens of German Triumph Car Owners Club members driving along in TVR's and TV6's and all other shapes and versions of Triumph. Driver and passenger with goggles on, top down and scarves flying give us a wave as the smooth hum of their engines sings a tune modern cars just don't have. Further on we stop and watch a farmer on his quad bike whistling his sheepdog to round up the sheep on the hill. Great to see as somehow farmer and dog communicate by whistle and the sheep are driven to where he wants them. When it is done he shouts 'that'll do' many times and the dog returns and jumps on to the quad bike. They go up the hill and gather some more sheep in. We both jump out of our skins a little further on as a horse snorts loudly behind us. We had not heard them coming as a couple of riders out for the day caught up with us and a loud snort was a big surprise so close at hand.Again we are accompanied by grouse who keep an eye on us from ridges above or wait on the path for us to join them ahead.

Then the moor is behind us and we enter Glaisdale and the Esk river valley. We are back with civilisation and the comforting four bars of Vodafone and email downloads! The riverwalk is lovely and muddy with views of houses on the river and quaint bridges. The green almost hurts our eyes after the soft browns and purples of the heathery moor.

We are staying in Grosmont this evening. A delightful little place. When we arrive Rob shows true friendship by letting me have the room with the bath. There is nothing that beats a bath after these walks. Or maybe there is. We both are looking forward to a whole day with dry clothing on! It seems we have been in wet clothes either from rain or sweat for as far back as we can remember.
Grosmont also has a steam railway running out to Whitby with a regular service. So we look at the timetable and pop down to see it arrive with that memorable chuff chuff chuff of childhood memories.
The final day tomorrow. Gosh it has come quickly.

Walk 62 (C2C 13) - 20.7 miles - Total 858.3 miles - To Go 141.7 miles

A Walk for Patsy, Sarah and everyone with MS.

Osmotherly, Huthwaite Green, Live Moor, Carlton Moor, Kirkby Bank, Hasty Bank, Clay Bank Top, Carr Ridge, Urra Moor, Rosedale Ironstone Railway (former track), Farndale Moor and High Blakey Moor.

Wainwright

'The broad expanse of moorland extending for 30 miles from the Vale of Mowbray to the east coast, heatherclad, unenclosed, uninhabited, remote from industry and noise and free from traffic, is a magnificent territory for the walker: open country like the Pennines and the Cheviots yet more handsome and colourful - and friendlier by far.'

Magnificent it certainly is on a scale that takes your breath away. This is one of our most impressive days of walking. Just under 21 miles of walking and as we ascend and descend five fells, hills or as they call them here 'banks' we only go to 1500 feet but in doing so ascend 3540 feet and descend 2800 feet. Thats 6340 feet of upping and downing or one sixth of Everest. The weather is wet, windy and we are grateful for our gear keeping us snug and warm inside.

In the first 14 miles we take on the five 'banks'. Early on we ascend in to the clouds and see heather covered moors reminiscent of the Clwyddian Range on Offa's Dyke. Once again we are up with the gods and discuss our request if they are listening to us. We agree our request of them is a cure for MS and really do hope they are listening to us. That is what we want.

The climbs are steep and slippery. At the top there is some ridge walking and although we are a good ten feet away from the edge it is still uncomfortable as there is a strong wind blowing us towards the drop. As we descend Kirkby Bank I hear a scream from Rob behind and he disappears from view. He was about 50 yards behind and I wait nervously for him to reapper. Eventually his hat bobs up and he is ok. He hit his knee against a sharp outcrop of rock and slipped and now has a bruise but fortunately is safe.

On Hasty Bank we have far more excitement and some real danger. We approach the famous Wainstones hanging precariously above the edge of the Hasty Bank. I hang back as I can see it is a worrying edge as I looked at the route on our way up. Rob mouflonesque stands for ages on the edge snapping away. Eventually he moves on and does seem to hesitate over which path to take. I let him go ahead and follow and do wonder if we should be going up through the Wainstones. As I follow I notice few footholds and a much more dangerous path than usual. We go round the cliff edge on a peaty, slippy path with a sheer drop below. I think this is the wrong path and later discover Rob thought the same but turning round and going back is not an option for Rob as he fears the impact it may have on me and not an option for me as I am following him. The final ascent is up vertically about 15 feet pulling ourselves up by heather and scrambling. I realise later that heather has a very small root and am grateful the plants we grabbed helped us up rather than uprooted and a deathly drop below. Rob says sheepishly 'sorry Len' and I am as confident as I can be he has not taken me on this detour to help me overcome my fears once and for all. We survived it and move on.

The final seven miles of this walk is flat and thanks to an old railway line is easy walking across the moor. Around us are bogs like the Pennine walk last week but they don't trouble us. We can enjoy the views around which are stunning. There are an amazing number of Grouse which seem tame and interested in us as they come up close. They have an distinctive chuckle as they take off and fly around us.


The views are continuous and wonderful even in the heavy rain and strong wind. Eventually appearing out of the mist in the distance is the Lion Inn, the most remote pub in England. Once a monasterial stop off point where bodies were stored on their way to be buried. It is now a large Inn serving food and drink to tourists all around the Moors and a welcome haven for walkers at the end of their long walk.
A wonderful day in which we met nobody and felt very close to nature, its power and the beauty of vistas on a grand scale.

Walk 61 (C2C 12) - 11.9 miles - Total 837.6 miles - To Go 162.4 miles

A Walk for Patsy, Sarah and everyone with MS.

Danby Wiske, Oaktree Hill, Harlsey Grove Farm, Longlands, Ingleby Arncliffe, Ingleby Cross and Osmotherley.



Wainwright

'What are more usually referred to as walkers' rights of way are public footpaths and bridleways over private land. Such rights may be legally provided in title deeds or they may simply have developed by the tread of feet over a period so long that "the memory of man runneth not the contrary".
Where rights of way do exist it is incumbent on the owner or tenant to permit through access by means of stiles or gates and keep the route free from hazard. Where a public footpath is in general use these conditions are invariably observed, but where little or no use is made of rights of way by the public there is a natural tendency to disregard their existence and cease to maintain them. This happens frequently in the section from Richmond to Ingleby Cross, where the footpaths are not only invisible on the ground but often blocked by obstructions, including bulls.'

This is country at the centre of battles between Wainwright and landowners over rights of access. Our feet suffer from Wainwrights defeats as much of today is along roads and hard track diversions established by local farmers. We are both suffering today as the accumulated tiredness hits our limbs and the pounding on the roads accentuates our fatigue. We see remnants of the battles fought as we cross some stiles that have barbed wire wound round the posts walkers will use when grabbing support as they swing over their legs. Many a hand must get cut as a result. At Harlsey Grove farm we meet the current farmer who is looking for a water main he put in the ground in 1985. A very agreeable farmer who talks amiably with Rob who asks him about what he thinks of Coast to Coasters. 'No problems' he says 'been here since 85 and no trouble at all. There was in the past mind as previous owner didn't like walkers going in front of the farm and managed to reroute the walkers path via road and track away from the farm'. Hence Wainwright quote above and this is one he lost.

Rob's creativity is working overtime today as we get through this last 11 miles of flat uninteresting land on our way to the Moors. He is determined to grab our readers interest before the natural delights of the Moors coming over the next two days. See if you can work out what this is.



Rob is also back with the cows and in deep conversation with them as he positions them for a pose.






Our last mile or so takes up our first hill in 24 miles and along an intersection with the Cleveland Way. It is good to be climbing again as interest in the terrain returns and we can look down and back on the flat lands behind us from where we have come. We feel it more than the hills on the first few days as the track is hard and tests our stamina.

On the way up we catch up with Jim the 71 year old from Devon we met after Rosthwaite. Jim is doing great and loving the walk. John O Grotes to Lands End fame Steve is higher up waiting for Jim. We are both impressed as we feel the tiredness in our limbs and wonder if we will be as impressive as Jim when we are 71 and able to take on a challenge like this as well as he is.

We descend in to Osmotherley which is a delightful little village with lots of pretty cottages and one of those village squares that appears in period films and costume dramas. Most importantly it has Sky and ESPN football so we can watch football all afternoon as we rest our weary limbs in preparation for the Moors tomorrow. Our thoughts are about the need to push ourselves on through any tiredness we feel on our way to the next stop. We hope our researchers are doing the same and working hard on pushing through the obstacles that get in their way on to the treatment we want for Patsy, Sarah and everyone with MS.

Walk 60 (C2C 11) - 13.9 miles - Total 825.7 miles - To Go 174.3 miles

A Walk for Patsy, Sarah and everyone with MS.

Richmond, Colburn, Catterick Bridge, Bolton on Swale and Danby Wilks.








Wainwright

'This area, locally known as the Vale of Mowbray, lies between two National Parks and is coveted by neither.'

Isabelle Allende

'Life is a lot of noise between two long periods of silence'

This is a walk which conjures up a bit of silence between two long periods of beautiful noise.

These are miles that we need to get through to get to the joys of the Yorkshire Moors. Having feasted on the fine banquets of the Lakes and the Dales this is a time for digestion before the final delightful serving promised across the Moors and to Robin Hood's Bay. It is flat, featureless, crosses a stationary A1 reminding us of congestion down South and it is monotonous with many parts hard on the feet by road. We construct Bridge hands to test our understanding of our bidding and play systems and this makes most of the journey pass. The only point of excitement along the way was a talking hedge. In the middle of analysing a hand a hedge in front of us says'we would know those voices anywhere'. We are taken aback as neither of us has come across a talking hedge before. We ask how the hedge knows us so well as we approach it and finally see HIlary (our lady of the bogs) and Steve sitting behind it and taking their lunch.


Today there is not much more to say. As the Emperor in Amadeus said to Mozart after hearing one of his piano pieces 'too many notes' and as our Diva Susan said to me after reading one of my blogs 'too many words' this is the one for you Susan and I hope I have not overstayed my welcome. We can see the Cleveland Hills ahead and look forward to more of interest tomorrow.

Walk 59 (C2C 10) - 11.8 miles - Total 811.8 miles - To Go 188.2 miles

A Walk for Patsy, Sarah and everyone with MS

Reeth, Marrick, Marske, Applegarth Scar, Whitecliffe Wood and Richmond.



Wainwright

'Richmond is a place unlike others, a place apart, rich in the relics of the past, steeped in a long history that still lingers in the precincts of the castle and the narrow alleys and quaint buildings that huddle in the shelter of the massive Norman keep. The castle, dramatically poised on a high cliff above the River Swale, is the dominating feature but hardly less impressive is the large cobbled market place with ancient church of the Holy Trinity rising from its stones and having a row of shops beneath its north aisle; or the fine tower standing amid the ruins of the friary. Other buildings also have associations with days gone by, notably the restored Georgian Theatre. Many of the streets too have an atmosphere of antiquity, their old names happily preserved, and pictuesque nooks and corners abound'






He says it all so beautifully once again and I am sure Rob's camera will add to it leaving little to the imagination. It is another day walking by the River Swale. The landscape is dotted delicately with trees punctuating a verdant green contrasting the deep blue of the Swale.



Just beyond Marrick we stop to talk to some farmers. Blue the sheep dog (mother was Sky) has been rounding up the stock ready in pens now for the dipping day ahead. They show us the process as the sheep are indelicately dropped in the dip where they frantically swim for their lives before being lifted out. They will appreciate it later with resistance to worms and tics that bother their lives.








This is James Herriot country of All Creatures Great and Small fame. The theme tune music comes to mind and as we walk and look in barns and across the fields great memories of all those stories of births, illnesses and all the other challenges of farming life in the Dales comes to mind.


We pass several miles discussing the current theories suggesting that conscious thought is nothing more than an illusion. Conscious thought nothing more than a post event rationalisation of what occured to put it in a good story form for future quick reference should we need to react quickly to protect ourselves at some future point. The miles pass and Rob tells me he is a determinist anyway so the idea fits with his line of thinking. We consider the social implications of such a theory and it is time to stop off for tea and toasted tea cakes at Eileen's Country Kitchen. Eileen is lovely and answers all our questions about producing beef from calf to butcher. We tell her the names of all the people who will visit today.

As we drop down the hill in to Richmond we walk along with Norman Bell. Norman has lived in Richmond for 66 years and is out planning a walk he is leading in a short while. He knows everything about the area and tells us stories of local celebreties including a hunter who rode his horse over a cliff in a mist, broke both legs, sheltered in the belly of his dead horse until rescued. Both legs were buried but the hunter lived on with some fame for many years more before the rest of his body was put to rest. Norman also blows our mind with stories of his fell running. The most amazing feat being to run the whole 190 miles over hill and dale from coast to coast in under 24 hours. Imaging that. Mind blowing. Brilliant Norman and it was a real pleasure meeting you.

Richmond is as charming as Wainwright describes and Rob's photos illustrate. We settle in to the Black Lion on Finkel Street where as soon as Rob discovers Liverpool are on the box tonight there is no way we are leaving until the morning.

800 Miles, Dinner with Friends and a Song from our own very special Diva

A Walk for Patsy, Sarah and everyone with MS.

The Black Bull, Reeth

We wander along to the Black Bull on the village green at Reeth for supper. Here we can celebrate our 800 mile mark which had crept up on us by surprise on our last paces to our accomodation. We enter the bar and once again it is like entering our local. Dave and Maggie are at the bar, buy us a pint and proffer pork scratchings. Heaven. A table is booked and we have a whizened aging yorkshire waiter with rapid fire one liners raising a wry smile over food orders. Eight friends to represent 800 miles. Our blog now doing the rounds in Perth, Adelaide and Sussex. Dinner stories of walks and talks and adventures along the way. Finally I am able to share with the gang that Rob is beginning to have some sense of what it is to have a fear of heights.
We get close with his dislike of chicken in any form in a meal. He really doesn't like it and there is a good story as to why. But even better he comes out in a cold sweat whenever he goes to post a letter. There is an even better story that goes with this which I will leave you to conjure up. Whatever you think of it is better than that. We now have an agreement in return for him restraining himself from saying 'you won't like this Len' or 'don't look down' I promise to refrain from asking him to post letters when we pass a letter box and will not order chicken for him when we eat.


Susan takes our celebration picture. Susan is a lovely lady with a super smile who we have breakfasted with at the Jolly Farmer, was with us as we passed our 100th mile along the path and Rob shows no recognition whatsoever as he hands her the camera to take the shot. He still shows no interest even when she tells him 'you don't know who I am do you?'. 'No' he says. But once she reveals she is the well known Opera singer Susan Parry he is up and asking for a photograph and telling her all about his interest in Puccini. Susan sang for us and it was wonderful. Everyone reached for their glasses fearing they would crack from the strength and quality of Susan's voice.

Another great evening with a lot of fun had by all.

Walk 58 (C2C 9) - 11.5 miles - Total 800.0 miles - To Go 200.0 miles

A Walk for Patsy, Sarah and everyone with MS

Thwaite, Muker, Ivelet Wood, Gunnerside, Blades, Kearton, Healaugh and Reeth.






Today we are walking in Swaledale alongside or above the swiftly flowing and peat coloured wake of the River Swale. Another day of stunning view after stunning view as every few yards another picture of the dale appears and is snapped by Rob's camera. After Keld we are now over half way and all water we now see is flowing to the North Sea on the East Coast opposing yesterdays flows to the Irish Sea. After three miles of todays walk we have completed 100 miles of Coast to Coast. One more milestone in our journey and again we hope research for a treatment for people with MS is making similar progress through its milestones.

After the exertions of yesterday in the Peat Bog Club the walking today is on firm ground and mostly flat. As easy as any of the walking we have done and a welcome relief. The views keep coming at us and we turn around and see the beauty of what is behind. This is a very photogenic part of the world. I play the role of Little John on a narrow bridge waiting for Robin Hood to come and try to make his way across.We meet Diane and Phil and are amazed to see Diane on her mobile phone. She is wishing her dad happy birthday in Australia. Rob and I on Vodafone have now been without a signal for over two days and here are Australians on the Orange network calling back home. First time Vodafone has been outdone in all our walking.

We stop off at Gunnerside at a delightful Tea Rooms and bump in to the whole gang there. Craig and Mary, Phil and Diane and Dave and Margaret all settle down with us as a shower passes us while we rest. Diane leads us all astray by suggesting one must have the cream tea when it is on offer so we do and it is really yummy but probably exceeding all the calories of today in one mouthful alone.

Then we head in to the hills above the Swale and look down on yet more stunning views. The walk finishes by the Swale as we walk in to Reeth. We finish on exactly 800 miles and yet one more milestone. Two in a day and again we hope for similar progress in MS Research.



Still no mobile signal and so far still no internet. We are getting civilization anxiety with so long out of contact. Fortunately Rob has offered to take on all moments of stress on these walks so I can relax as he huffs and puffs and lines his face with anxiety tuts once more and paces up and down angrily. He is such a good friend!