A Walk for Patsy, Sarah and everyone with MS.Kirkby Stephen, Birkett Hill, Hartley Fell, Nine Standards Rigg, Whitsundale Beck, Ravenseat Farm, Keld and Thwaite.
Wainwright
'...there are different theories about the origin of the nine large cairns so conspicuously sited on the Pennine watershed between the valleys of the rivers Eden and Swale. They are certainly old, appearing as the Nine Standards on eighteenth century maps and giving their name to the hill top they adorn. They have multiplied in number, modern visitors having added a few more of lesser stature to the collection. One romantic suggestion is that they were built to give marauding Scots advancing up the Eden valley the false impression that an English army was encamped here. MOre likely is that they were boundary markers (the county boundary passed through them) or beacons. Harder to believe is that the builders were local lads with nothing better to do to pass the time. Whatever the purpose, the cairns were meant to endure and have suffered little from the storms of centuries.'
The Jolly Farmers is one of the best places we have stayed and Carol one of the most welcoming of hosts. Welcoming scones, a clean crisp white dressing gown, time to sit and have a chat and a comfortable sitting room, dining room and bedrooms. 
This is a must stay place along the route. We see off our friends Dave and Margaret and Phil and Diane as they set out on their way. 
Our big decision is green, red or blue route over breakfast. Green is road so not interested in that and it seems the big issue is the route through the bogs. Later we will learn what it means to become a member of the Peat Bog Club.We set out over Franks Bridge, along the river Eden as we leave Kirkby Stephen behind. Our first destination is the Nine Standards and somehow we have chosen the blue, hardest route across the top. As we climb and climb the wind gets stronger and stronger and is gale force by the top.
The Nine Standards are an amazing feature. Clearly put up by expert dry stone wall builders but even so when you imagine the wind that must hit this spot in the winter you do wonder how they have lasted hundreds of years. It is a wonderful thought to imagine they were a warning to marauding Scots but could us English be that smart? We think it was a dry stone wall competition hundreds of years ago with each master seeking to outbuild his or her local competitors.
Now we take on the bogs. You must have met people who have walked bogs or told you stories about why you should avoid bogs. These are our first bogs and shortly after the Nine Standards we learn what they are all about. All of a sudden you are confronted with stretches of bog where there is no clear path. After a long time sticking our walking poles into deep porridgy bog we stand back and watch others for a clue. But it seems they are watching us for a clue. Eventually you just have to go for it. Then the only question is how deep you sink in to the peat. I go for it and end up knee deep scrambling my way out. 
Rob follows and asks me if I can tell him next time I set off so he can capture me deep in peat. This goes on for several miles and our only saving grace is meeting Hilary and Steve. Hilary seems to have an instinct for the safest route across these obstacles. After a while we just follow her and are lead to safety with just a few more knee deep immersions. We now understand why you must not come this way if visibility is poor. There is no way of knowing which way to go if you can't see the next post ahead. 
The scenery is stunning all the way. We look down on the winding Whitsundale Beck and stop beside it for lunch. A spot out of the wind and in the sun to rest our weary limbs after walking less than 1 mile each hour. That is how slow it is to make progress walking through bogs. But it is a new experience aAheadnd we now feel we are true members of the Peat Bog Club.
The wind returns and now a heavy shower as we reconnect with the red and green route. Ahead is an offer of scones and cream teas in the barn at Ravenseat Farm. Timing is perfect as a heavy shower is soaking us through. We enter the barn and who do we meet but Dave, Maggie, Pete, Diane, Craig, Mary, Hilary and Steve. A fabulous meeting place where for an unbelievable price of £2 you can enjoy with friends a cream tea of scone, clotted cream, fresh jam and tea. Amanda meets you at the farm with a big smile and welcome to take your order and shortly after brings it out on a tray. Amanda appeared on Julia Bradbury's Coast to Coast programme and tells us what a really nice person Julia is. She keeps in touch with Amanda and is grateful to Amanda's husband for a rescue mission for a twisted ankle during filming. Amanda's husband became Julia's knight in shining armour as he raced across the moors on his quad bike to bring them back to safety. 
There are photos of him with his arm around Julia who is grateful for the rescue but there is no jealousy from Amanda. Yeah right! Her husband can't understand why all the people he knows now call him Colin as he goes to all the farmers events that take place as part of normal life. Eventually he discovers his rescue mission is written up and published and the story is told of how Colin rescued Julia and her team. His name is Clive so all his friends and acquaintances took the opportunity to use his professional name in media circles. Amanda wonders what he will be called now he has been asked to play a part in a forthcoming filming of Wuthering Heights. Rob has renamed Amanda Cathy and Colin/Clive as Heathcliffe. Clive will be wearing film make up and needs to play the role of 'grumpy farmer' which Amanda thinks he may be able to do well.The scenery all around continues to captivate.
We descend in to Thwaite to our bed tonight where there is no mobile reception, no internet and no television. And yet the place is fully booked every night and thriving which tells you something about the beauty of this part of the world. Standards, bogs, cream teas, friends again, gale force winds and amazing scenery make for another very special day along our way. These were tough miles and tendons and knees are complaining tonight but we sit back and hope the research is making similar progress and bringing hope for Patsy, Sarah and everyone with MS.
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