Walk 63 (C2C 14) - 14.9 miles - Total 873.2 miles - To Go 126.8 miles

A Walk for Patsy, Sarah and everyone with MS

Blakey Ridge, Great Fryup Dale, Glaisdale, Beggars Bridge and Grosmont.






Wainwright

'The watershed is crossed, the wild moors left behind and a descent made into the beautiful valley of Eskdale. The loneliness of the last few days is ended by mingling with fellow creatures and the companionship of the lovely river, and the silences of the heights replaced by the sounds of civilisation; there are houses and shops again and even an active railway. The landscape, no longer sombre, becomes richly wooded and verdant, and the day's walk is designed to ensure that there is time to enjoy it at a leisurely pace.'

We leave the remote but massive Lion Hotel behind us. We approached from behind across 21 miles of moorland but the place is packed with tourists arriving on one of the few roads across the moors. The sun is out this morning and we see the heather in all its colourful glory. We are alone again and quickly we feel the silence which is occassionaly punctuated by the distinctive chuckle of the grouse. The views are amazing and we just walk along taking them in, looking around and letting nature's lighting show off the different hues, moods and textures of moorland scenery.
Heavy showers pass through in the distance, clouds pass overhead to cast light here and shadow there, the sun comes out to light up the heather and to cap it all we get a full rainbow where we look for the pot of gold at the end that will give us the funds to accelerate a treatment for people with MS. We get our first glimpse of the NOrth Sea and soon discover it is only 8 miles away and somehow Wainwright is going to take us a further 20 to get there. We trust in him as he seems to know what he was talking about and we have really enjoyed his walk.

Although quiet and lonely the moors are an active place. Early on while still on the road we see dozens of German Triumph Car Owners Club members driving along in TVR's and TV6's and all other shapes and versions of Triumph. Driver and passenger with goggles on, top down and scarves flying give us a wave as the smooth hum of their engines sings a tune modern cars just don't have. Further on we stop and watch a farmer on his quad bike whistling his sheepdog to round up the sheep on the hill. Great to see as somehow farmer and dog communicate by whistle and the sheep are driven to where he wants them. When it is done he shouts 'that'll do' many times and the dog returns and jumps on to the quad bike. They go up the hill and gather some more sheep in. We both jump out of our skins a little further on as a horse snorts loudly behind us. We had not heard them coming as a couple of riders out for the day caught up with us and a loud snort was a big surprise so close at hand.Again we are accompanied by grouse who keep an eye on us from ridges above or wait on the path for us to join them ahead.

Then the moor is behind us and we enter Glaisdale and the Esk river valley. We are back with civilisation and the comforting four bars of Vodafone and email downloads! The riverwalk is lovely and muddy with views of houses on the river and quaint bridges. The green almost hurts our eyes after the soft browns and purples of the heathery moor.

We are staying in Grosmont this evening. A delightful little place. When we arrive Rob shows true friendship by letting me have the room with the bath. There is nothing that beats a bath after these walks. Or maybe there is. We both are looking forward to a whole day with dry clothing on! It seems we have been in wet clothes either from rain or sweat for as far back as we can remember.
Grosmont also has a steam railway running out to Whitby with a regular service. So we look at the timetable and pop down to see it arrive with that memorable chuff chuff chuff of childhood memories.
The final day tomorrow. Gosh it has come quickly.